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Next time you plan your trip to the Italian Riviera on the Ligurian coast, if you are staying in Portofino take a few ours away from the port on a relaxing boat ride to San Fruttuoso which is a magical and extremely alluring little beach and Abbey half way between the romantic fishing village Camogli and the wonderfully famous Portofino.
Easily accessible by ferry from all of the surrounding main ports, San Fruttuoso is not a location that you can stay at yet rather one to visit for a few hours morning or midday for some peaceful time out that includes sitting down to a mouth-watering lunch of pasta, pizza or delicate seafood with a glass of great local wine.
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As the ferry takes you around the point the scenery on the way over is of luscious dense vegetation hanging onto the edge of a cliff face that runs down from the Portofino mountains dropping directly and profoundly into the Mediterranean Sea below. As you pass the half way point it is possible to see a side of Portofino that is only visible by sea. Standing proud is the brilliantly painted yellow Saint George Church and further up the mountain you can also see the walls of the impressive 15th Century, Castello Brown.
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It is not hard to see why this is an extremely popular site for divers from around the world, not only are the waters crystal clear, so sparklingly translucent that you can see the colourful fish swimming closer in to shore, yet the main attractions that make me want to learn to dive for my next visit are the red coral and “Christ of Abyss” statue that was submerged here in 1954 to protect the seamen and divers in this preserved and treasured area that locals hold dear to their hearts.
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Following a restful hour swimming and relaxing reading my book on the waters edge I could start to smell the sweet fragrance coming from the kitchens of the three little restaurants/bars that sat literally just a stones throw on either side of my beach towel.
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Ashore the San Fruttuoso Abbey is attended regularly by Italian’s and stands proud as the focal point on this alluring petite beach. The Church dates back from the 8th Century so there is a lot of early history behind the Church that involves the death of Bishop Fruttuoso, a myth of visions experienced by five monks whilst looking for his place of burial as described by the Bishop and three signs including those of a terrible dragon, a cave and a source of fresh water.
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When lunch is over and its time to move on take a walk through the small archways underneath the Abbey up and behind the walls to the Church entrance. There is a small fee to actually enter the Abbey that goes to the restoration of the building and a small shop where you can purchase your entree ticket along with many other delicious locally made pasta’s, oils, vinegars and tourist trinkets.
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Ristorante Bar Giorgio has a small table nestled at the front of the restaurant that sits below and in front of other diners and hugs the rock-face sheltered by a large white umbrella. When I was last there it was calling my name so once seated with a glass of dry prossecco in my hand, I took my time to acknowledge being the lucky one to have been so privileged to be able to sit overlooking the breathtakingly beautiful bay at the foot of the Portofino mountains.
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When I left the bay of San Fruttuoso looking back from aboard the ferry I was in awe of this wonderfully characteristic and historical place. Looking over the edge of the ferry I tried hard to see “Christ of Abyss” yet realised it impossible without the ability to dive. I waved goodbye to the local fishermen and water taxi drivers sitting in their small boats who seemed to have not moved an inch in the few hours since my arrival time as the ferry set forth again out to sea. Until next time my memories of this tranquil little place are vivid and alive.
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